Bhubaneswar is essentially a town of Temples and tanks, with the majestic Lingaraja temples dominating the landscape for miles around. Though many of the shrines have long succumbed to the destructive forces of nature, standing ones of various sizes even now exist literally in hundreds. The overwhelming sanctity of 'Ekamrakshetra' led the rulers and the ruled, actuated by the hope of an eternal abode in heaven, to vie with one another in embellishing the sacred place with temples of all dimensions.

The history of Bhubaneswar and its environs goes back much earlier than the 7th century A.D., which first witnessed the feverish zeal of temple building. It is one of the few places in India, which have the rare distinction of having archaeological remains almost from the dawn of the historical period down to the end of the Hindu rule.

Bhubaneswar or The temple city of India is a city located on the eastern coast of India. Once the capital of ancient Kalinga, the city has a long history and is today a bustling centre for commerce and religious activity. Bhubaneswar became the modern capital of the state of Orissa in 1948, a year after India gained its independence from Britain. The city is inhabited by over a million people and maintains a high rate of population growth.

Modern Bhubaneswar was originally meant to be a well planned city with wide roads and many gardens and parks. A part of the city has stayed faithful to the plan. But it has grown rapidly over the last few decades with the population almost doubling every decade. This has made the planning process unwieldy. The city now has a population of close to 0.6 million. But it is a part of the greater urban conglomoration that includes Cuttack, Khurda, Choudwar and Jagatpur and the population of this urban conglomoration, most probably, is more than two and half million.

Having merged its intriguing past so uniquely with its modern aspirations, it forms an integral link in the Golden Triangle that [AK]incorporates the holy city of Puri and Konark, for the tourists that flock to pay their homage to the religious, cultural and natural wonders that abound here. To the east are the famous Sun temple of Konark and the Jagannath Temple of Puri. The Lingarʉaj Temple of old Bhubaneswar, built in the 11th century, is another temple noted for its ancient history. The Khandagiri and Dhauligiri, situated on the outskirts of the city, carry monuments of inhabitants of buddhist monks in the time of King Ashoka. Another such monument is the Shantistupa, which was built as a symbol of peace at the site where the great Kalinga War took place between Emperor Ashoka and Kalinga (the old empire of Orissa).

The striking features of the city are the numerous temples and shrines that seem to be all around you. Bhubaneswar's skyline is dominated by some of the most spectacular engineering and artistic feats of its ancient heritage. The imposing spire of the Lingaraj Temple, the quiet beauty of the Vishwa Shanti Stupa and the pink translucence of the Mahavira Jain Temple in nearby Khandagiri, inspire feelings of wonder at their sheer beauty and their cross-- cultural permutations. These three alone offer an excellent insight into the ancient cultural strength of Orissa and are well-worth exploring at greater length. At least four of Bhubaneswar's temples must be on the tourist's agenda, to get a feel of the dynamic artistry and development of their indigenous perfection.

The temples have after all stood testimony to the area's history, which spans 25 centuries. The Lingaraj, the Parsurameswar, the Mukteswar and the Rajarani temples are unique in themselves, not only in their architectural beauty but also in the wonderful sculptures which enhance their presence. An interesting variation figures in the Vital and Brahmeswar temples. Though the Lingaraj is closed to non-Hindus, it can be viewed from the viewing platform constructed alongside.

Bhubaneswar is the place where temple building activities of Orissan style flowered from its very inception into its fullest culmination extending over a period of over one thousand years.

The State Museum of Bhubaneswar offers an excellent selection of archaeological artifacts, weapons, local arts and crafts as well as insights into Orissa's natural and tribal history. The museum has the world's largest collection of palm leaf paintings. The Tribal Research Institute Museum with its authentic tribal dwellings, created by the tribal craftsmen is a great place to get a bird's eye view of the State's tribal heritage. The Regional Plant Resource Centre (RPRC) has about 500 acres (2 km²) of plantations, tissue culture and experimental laboratory and a huge lake where migratory birds make their home. The two unique features of RPRC are its status for housing the largest rose garden in the country with an area of 20 acres (81,000 m²) and having the largest collection of cacti (550) in Asia. Bhubaneswar is a shopper's delight. Saris woven by the master weavers in silk and cotton are available in the private shops and government emporia. You can also pick up all kinds of artifacts and jewellery produced in different parts of the State. The Handloom Weavers Co-operative is worth a visit.

Bhubaneswar is situated between 21° 15' North Latitude 85° 15' Longitude and at an altitude of 45 meters above sea level, the average temperatures range between 15 °C in the winter to a maximum of 40 °C to 45 °C in the summer. The south-east monsoons appear in June. The average annual rainfall is 1,500 mm, most of which is recorded between June and October.

Geographically, Bhubaneswar is situated in the eastern coastal plains of Orissa and south-west of the river Mahanadi whose tributaries like Kuakhai, Bhargavi and Daya wash the fingers of this city.

Bhubaneswar is subdivided into a number of townships and housings. The most notable are the nine units which lie to the west of Janpath, the city's main arterial road. Initially meant to house the bulk of the city's population, the 9 Units are now emerging as commercial districts.

To the east of Janpath are Shahid Nagar, Satya Nagar and Bapuji Nagar. They are private residential areas, now fast changing their characters into commercial zones. Hotels, malls, departmental stores, coaching institutes vie for space in these prime localities.

Bindu-Sarovara Tank

It is said that Lord Shiva established this tank as a place of pilgrimage by bringing water from all the holy places. Taking bath here and drinking the water of this lake is said to cure any disease of the stomach. Lord Chaitanya took bath in this lake when He first came from Bengal to Puri. It is located right next to the Lingaraja Temple . A pilgrimage to Bhubaneswar is supposed to start with a bath here. On the eastern bank is the 'Ananta Vasudeva' temple , which is dedicated to Krishna and Balarama.

The Lingaraja deity is brought to the pavilion in the middle of the tank and ritually bathed during the annual Car festival ('Ashokastami '). The best time to come here is around sunrise.

Lingaraja Temple (11th century)

The Lingaraja temple dominates the skyline of Bhubaneshwar from as far away as 15-kms and exhibits the skill of the Orissan temple architects at its completely mature and developed stage. This temple was constructed in the 11th Century AD at the site of an old 7th Century Shrine. Along with the 'deul' and the 'Jagmohana' the Lingaraja temple has two new structures, the 'Nata Mandira' (dance hall) and the ' Bhoga Mandapa' (offering hall). Dedicated to Lord Shiva the 'Lingam' here is unique in that it is a 'Hari Hara' lingam - half Siva and Half Vishnu. There are around 150 subsidiary shrines within this giant temple.

Muktesvara Temple, Bhubaneswar, OrissaMuktesvara Temple
Often referred to as the 'Gem of Orissan Architecture' this temple has been built on the lines of the Kalinga School of temple architecture. This temple too is a deviation in that the architects have blended old and new techniques of planning and execution. Many new innovations in later temples are from here. A 'Torana', an arched gateway is a unique feature of this temple.

The temple dedicated Lord Shiva-Mukteswara , is carved with figures of ascetics in various poses of meditation and scenes from the storehouse of Indian fables, the 'Panchatantra'. A dip in a sacred well to the east of the temple is supposedly a cure for infertility.

Parasurameswara Temple

Parasurameswara Temple built in 650 AD is one of the few earliest temples of Bhubaneshwar. This temple built in the 'Kalinga' style of temple architecture was dedicated to Lord Siva but there are images of Lord Vishnu, 'Yama', 'Surya' and seven Mother Goddesses. In typical fashion, it is liberally sculpted with amorous couples, animals and floral motifs.

Just south of Parasurameswara temple is the 'Swaranajaleswara' temple is the 'Swaranajaleswara' temple. Built in a similar style, the motifs on the walls however differ, depicting scenes from the 'Ramayana'.

Raj Rani Temple

The Raja Rani temple is an essay in grace and poise and is particularly interesting in that it has no presiding deity. The name of this temple is supposed to be derived from the red-gold sandstone used - Raja Rani being the local name for the stone. The 'deul' is intricately carved with figurines in various stages of daily chores. The lower portion of the deul has the 'Gurdians of the eight directions' guarding the eight cardinal points of the temple.

Brahmeshwara Temple

Brahmeswara temple depicts the mature Orissan style of temple architecture. The 'deul' and the 'Jagmohana' are both intricately carved and for the first time in temple architectural history musicians and dancers appear on the outer walls and iron beams find their first use. In the western section 'Chamunda', Shiva and other deities are depicted.

Vaital Deul Temple

Vaital Deul is the Shrine of 'Chamunda' or 'Shakti'. Seated on a corpse in a dark inner sanctum is the Goddess Chamunda, garland of skulls round her neck and flanked by a jackal and an owl. The niches on the inner wall depict equally startling images along with scenes of tantric rituals. It is the first of the temples to depict erotic sculptures, it is also unique in that the outer surface of the vault is plain while profusely embellished on the inside.

Orissa State Museum

This museum has a collection of religious sculptures, weapons, coins, and musical instruments. It also has a good collection of antique paintings and palm leaf manuscripts in a small room at the end of the corridor on the first floor.

It is located at the top of Gautam Nagar (Lewis Road), not far from the hotel Ashok and is open from Tuesday to Sunday, 10am to 1.30pm and 2.30 to 5pm.

By Air

There are regular Indian Airlines flights to Hyderabad, Nagpur, Calcutta, Delhi, Varanasi, Bombay and Madras. The airport is very close to town. If you have an early morning flight, it is a good idea to have your hotel arrange a taxi the night before and pay a little more to avoid the morning inconvenience of finding a taxi at that time. The Indian Airline office is on Raj Path, by the bus stand.

By Rail

Bhubaneswar is on the main Calcutta to Madras line so all the main trains stop here. The Howrah-Bangalore mail and Guwahati-Bangalore go to Bangalore. The Coromandel Express is a good train going to Madras. There are direct trains to Delhi, Agra, Remuna, and Varanasi. The Rajdhani Express departs from Delhi one day a week on Friday to Bhubaneswar. The Puri-New Delhi Express is a good train to Delhi.

By Road

The best way to get from Bhubaneswar to Puri is on one of the Canter minibuses that leave from the old bus station in the center of town, the new bus stand, and from the petrol station opposite the Ashok Hotel. They take a little more than an hour to get to Puri. There are also larger buses that go Puri, but they are slower than the minibuses. It is best to get an Express bus to Puri, which make only one stop en route. There is a direct bus to Konark too. If one misses out the direct bus, one can take a Puri buses to Pipli and from there get another bus to Konark.